Subiaco, the beating heart of Rome’s Aniene valley, a treasure trove of ancient crafts, history and nature, is just 50 kilometres from Rome.
A medieval town with a mighty 11th-century fortress
This little medieval town, the beating heart of the Aniene Valley, immersed in the Monti Simbruini Regional Natural Park, is the cradle of monasticism and printing. The first stop on our itinerary is the Rocca dei Borgia, the most important and imposing building in the historic centre of the town. The fortress was built in the 11th century to establish monastic rule over the castle of Subiaco. Equipped with fortifications, dungeons and a mighty tower, the fortress also has a small church dedicated to St. Thomas the Apostle.
Subiaco
The birthplace of Cesare and Lucrezia Borgia
Cardinal Rodrigo Borgia restyled the fortress in 1476, raising the fortified tower, and it was here that the cardinal's two famous children, Lucrezia Borgia and her brother Cesare, were born. Today it still preserves numerous works of high historical and artistic value, and inside the fortress we can visit the MACS - Museo delle Attività Cartarie e della Stampa (Museum of Paper and Printing Activities), which will guide us through the history of written communication and its media.
A villa built by Emperor Nero and a town famous for its paper
Emperor Nero had his Imperial Villa built in Subiaco in 60 A.D. This luxurious summer residence extended over an area of 75 hectares, and the emperor used to take refuge here during the hot summer months surrounded by waterfalls, water features and caves. Today, some remains of the Villa can be seen on the sides of the Via Sublacense including a cistern and numerous rooms which were baths and built with bricks and latticework. The ancient Borgo degli Opifici district is in a strategic position in the town between the Piazza Sant'Andrea square, the site not only of the Basilica of the same name but also of the Town Hall, and the Piazza Benedetto Tozzi. The Borgo dei Cartai papermakers district is an immersive museum that combines didactic enjoyment with the production of paper artefacts.
Rafting, skiing, snowboarding…and polenta!
The limestone cliffs of Subiaco are a popular destination for climbers and hikers. One of the best ecological experiences to be had in the Aniene Valley is on a ten-seater rubber raft-style dinghy gliding along the emerald river currents. And you can stop every now and then to take a dip in the clear waters. For skiers and snowboarders the Monna dell'Orso facilities are perfect for all levels, from kids to experts, and its several slopes are divided into blue, red and a black. Subiaco’s Sublacensis polenta, unlike the blend of polenta found in northern Italy, is thin and soft and sprinkled with a rich tomato sauce and meat, usually juicy pork ribs.
